Taranto isn’t the most talked-about destination when people dream of Italy. Rome, Venice, and Florence usually steal the spotlight. But I stepped off the train at Taranto’s central station with a curious hunger — not just the literal one, though that was undeniably strong — but a hunger for something different, something earthier. The sea breeze already hinted at salt and lemons. What I didn’t know was how deeply I’d fall for the cuisine here, which seems to whisper the secrets of the Ionian Sea, the olive groves, and the ancient traditions of Apulia (Puglia).
Over the course of this visit, I wandered into kitchens, struck up conversations with waiters and nonnas, and followed locals down alleyways into places that don’t always appear on the usual travel apps. I booked most of my meals through TheFork and occasionally used Quandoo, which were surprisingly helpful in such a traditional town. Here are ten restaurants in Taranto that stood out — not just for their food, but for the stories they served on every plate.
1. Al Canale
Address: Via Cava 35, 74123 Taranto
The first night I arrived, I walked until I could smell garlic sautéed in olive oil from a hundred meters away. I didn’t look at reviews; I simply followed my nose. That led me to Al Canale, nestled by the edge of the Old Town canal, with a flickering light above its rustic wooden door.
The owner, Mario, didn’t hand me a menu until he brought out a complimentary glass of Verdeca and a bite-sized crostino topped with anchovy and tomato jam. I watched the small dining room fill with older locals who seemed to be regulars, nodding to Mario like he was family.
Their spaghetti ai ricci di mare (sea urchin pasta) was unforgettable. The urchin, harvested just a few kilometers from the harbor, was briny and sweet, melting into the pasta like butter. I asked about the recipe. “No cream, just olive oil, garlic, and the sea,” Mario said.
I also tried the grilled polpo (octopus), served on a warm bean puree — a dish that brought together land and sea in a single, harmonious bite. The meal ended with a glass of homemade rosolio and a handshake from Mario, which meant more than any dessert.
2. Trattoria del Pescatore
Address: Viale Virgilio 79, Taranto
When the seafood cravings hit again, I turned to a local friend I had made during a morning espresso near Piazza Maria Immacolata. She pointed me to Trattoria del Pescatore, not far from the lungomare.
The place looked unassuming from the outside. Inside, the walls were covered with fishing nets, photos of local fishermen, and old nautical maps. I was seated near a window, where I could glimpse the port in the distance.
I started with a crudo di mare platter — raw shrimp, mussels, and thin slices of amberjack drizzled with lemon and olive oil. There’s a purity to raw seafood here that’s hard to describe; it’s a connection to the sea that goes beyond taste.
Their risotto ai frutti di mare was bright, lemony, and infused with the richness of shellfish stock. Every grain of rice held onto its identity while still being part of something greater. That dish alone made me look up flights back to Taranto for the future.
3. Il Grillo
Address: Via Pitagora 15, Taranto
On the third night, I wanted something quieter, more intimate. Il Grillo, tucked behind the Castello Aragonese, offered a candlelit atmosphere and a warm, familial ambiance.
The owner’s mother still makes the orecchiette al sugo di braciola every morning. The sauce — slow-cooked with rolled beef stuffed with garlic, parsley, and pecorino — clung to the little ear-shaped pasta with the kind of intensity that only happens when love and time are involved.
They paired it with a robust Primitivo di Manduria, poured generously without fuss. I lingered over each bite, then dipped the crusty bread into what was left on the plate until it was clean. When I praised the sauce, the owner smiled, disappearing into the kitchen and returning with a hand-written note of the family’s version of the recipe.
4. La Paranza
Address: Via Duca degli Abruzzi 51, Taranto
I discovered La Paranza while searching TheFork for a place open on a Monday — not always an easy task in southern Italy. The reviews spoke of a daily catch and “grandmother-level” flavor. They were right.
This was the place where I ate the best grilled scampi I’ve ever tasted. Simple. No sauces. Just fire, salt, and a squeeze of lemon. It reminded me of the philosophy that dominates Puglian cuisine: don’t hide the ingredient — let it speak.
Their frittura mista di mare was crisp and feather-light, with calamari and little whole fish that crunched under my teeth, revealing hot, flaky meat inside. I ordered a second glass of local white and stayed long enough that the waiter brought over a dessert without me asking — a slice of torta di mandorle, dense and perfumed with orange zest.
5. Al Gambero
Address: Via Cavallotti 20, Taranto
Sometimes I choose a place based on its name. “The Shrimp” sounded promising enough, and Al Gambero didn’t disappoint. This was a fancier spot, with white tablecloths and a more modern interior, but the heart of the food was still deeply rooted in tradition.
I started with burrata with anchovy emulsion, which was as luxurious as it sounds. The saltiness of the anchovy contrasted beautifully with the creaminess of the burrata, which oozed onto the plate like lava from a fresh eruption.
Their signature dish was tagliolini con bottarga e limone — a celebration of umami and citrus. I asked the sommelier for a pairing, and he brought a chilled bottle of Fiano, which worked like a chord under a melody.
It was one of the few meals where I didn’t check my phone once. There was too much to pay attention to on the plate and in the atmosphere.
6. Ristorante Vecchie Storie
Address: Via Duomo 36, Taranto
On a rain-drenched afternoon, I ducked into Vecchie Storie, lured by the warm light spilling from its arched stone doorway. Inside, the walls told stories: shelves stacked with wine, black-and-white photos of fishermen and families, dried herbs hanging like old blessings.
They had a special that day: zuppa di cozze tarantina — a spicy mussel soup served with grilled bread. The broth was red and slightly oily, infused with chili, garlic, and white wine. It was the kind of dish that warms more than your stomach. It warms your week.
For my second course, I went with agnello al forno con patate, slow-roasted lamb with potatoes, rosemary, and garlic. It’s not seafood, but it’s traditional — and a reminder that Puglia is also a land of shepherds and soil, not just waves and boats.
7. Tana del Polpo
Address: Via De Cesare 18, Taranto
I had passed by Tana del Polpo twice before I noticed it. The entrance is modest, easy to miss unless you’re looking for it. Inside, the smell of grilled shellfish hits you like a warm embrace.
I had the polpo alla pignata — octopus slow-cooked in an earthenware pot with tomatoes, celery, and a hint of chili. The octopus was tender enough to cut with a spoon. It came with a side of roasted fennel and zucchini that balanced the richness of the stew.
Dessert was a surprise: fig and almond tart served with a drizzle of vincotto. It tasted like late summer. I asked if they sold the vincotto, and they directed me to a nearby shop where I bought a bottle to carry home in my suitcase.
8. Ristò Fratelli Pesce
Address: Lungomare Vittorio Emanuele III, 74123 Taranto
For a lunch with a view, Ristò Fratelli Pesce became my go-to. Right on the seafront, it offers not just scenery but also some of the freshest seafood in the city.
I ordered their panino con tonno rosso scottato, a sandwich of seared red tuna, arugula, and lemon mayo on a semolina roll. I don’t usually rave about sandwiches, but this was next-level — juicy, sharp, and utterly balanced.
I followed it with insalata di mare, full of squid, mussels, octopus, and potatoes. There was a simplicity in how each ingredient retained its individuality, yet worked together like a chorus.
This was the kind of place where you could eat with one hand and type notes with the other, but I stopped typing after the first bite.
9. La Tana del Lupo
Address: Via Mazzini 42, Taranto
Despite the similar name, La Tana del Lupo had a completely different personality from Tana del Polpo. This one leaned more towards meat and game, with an atmosphere that felt almost Alpine — dark wood, iron chandeliers, and roaring laughter from big tables.
Their pappardelle al cinghiale (wild boar pasta) was richly spiced, with hints of clove and cinnamon in the sauce. It was served with pecorino shavings and crushed black pepper, the kind of dish that makes you lean back and smile to yourself after the first bite.
I also tried their formaggi misti platter, which included local aged cheeses paired with fig jam and walnut bread. A bottle of Negroamaro cut through the fattiness beautifully.
10. Trattoria da Ugo
Address: Via Dante Alighieri 127, Taranto
I ended my culinary tour at Trattoria da Ugo, a neighborhood favorite with zero pretense and infinite flavor. The kind of place where you don’t need to ask what’s good because everything is.
I went with the waiter’s suggestion: troccoli con pesce spada e melanzane, thick handmade pasta with swordfish chunks, fried eggplant, and a little mint. It was rustic, honest, and deeply satisfying.
The meal closed with ricotta al forno — a baked ricotta cake that tasted like something a grandmother might make if she really wanted to impress her family on a Sunday.
Every dish across these ten places told a different part of the same story: a region defined by its ingredients, history, and sense of place. Taranto doesn’t shout for attention. It whispers, waits, and welcomes you when you’re ready to listen — and to eat.
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